Moonfly Kids

Archive for the ‘Mountaineering’ Category

Denali Diaries

Monday, March 16th, 2009

A few years ago, I had the opportunity to join an all female expedition up The West Buttress of Denali. After five years of rock climbing, alpine climbing and other addictive mountain sports, this was to be my most ambitious climb yet. Rather than write an entire, lengthy monologue-type trip report, I thought it more fun to reveal my climb as I remember it in my head: as crazy little snippets of conversation, random thoughts and breathtaking snapshots from above the clouds. You will laugh, you will cry, you will shake your head in amazement at both the unbelievably stupid and the unbelievably awesome. Stay tuned for random posts from my Denali Diary.

 

Twelve women and three guides, all crammed into a van. We had all just met a few hours ago. It was quiet as we sized each other up, save for one woman whose mouth never stopped moving the entire time she was on the trip.

“So, do you climb a lot?” she asks me.

“I guess so.”

“Where do you climb? Where are you from? How long have you been climbing?” 

“I’m from Vegas.”

“Where do you climb in Vegas?”

(Sigh) Pause. “Red Rock has killer rock climbing, and I like Mt. Charleston for a little altitude training. It’s sorta high and it’s only an hour outside of Vegas.” 

“Oh, wow, really, I didn’t know that. I just know the casinos and all.” She grins and continues. “I’m from California.”

I look out the window for a distraction but I don’t find one. “Cool. Where do you like to climb in Cali?”

“I climb at this rock gym by my work. It’s super fun. And I like to backpack whenever I can. Do you like to backpack?”

“I do some backpacking in the Sierras. And climbing too, I love it there.” I finally smile. “I did most of my training for this trip in the Sierras since it’s only 5 hours from Vegas. I’ve managed to tick off eleven fourteeners. If I’m lucky, I’ll finish them by next season, well, hopefully, if all goes well.”

“What’s a fourteener?”

I feel my smile fade. Pause. The others around us have tuned into the conversation and are looking at us curiously.

“It’s, um, a peak over 14,000 feet.” 

Silence.

Another girl pipes up. “Wow, sounds like you’re really into this stuff.”

“I guess so.  I was sorta hoping all of you would be too.”

I scrunch down in my seat and press my knees against the back of the seat in front of me and try to ignore the feeling of dread rising up in my stomach.

Will the Red-headed Phoenix ever rise again?

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

I’ve been looking for a preamble to this blog entry for several years… Saved by the Interwebzzzz…this article in the January issue of Climbing did it for me. http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/climbingmom/index.html

Susan EB Schwartz brings up very valid and controversial points about climbing & motherhood, two all encompassing, complex topics that could never be fully explored in one short post. Climbing is a lifestyle, as is motherhood. What happens when the two collide? Well, that’s what puzzles me everyday.

As a childless climber, I felt smug about my training, my climbing accomplishments and my free spirited life style. Nothing could be better than this, I thought, I do what I want, when I want. I see places precious few souls have seen (or even heard of). I have superior health and a body of steel.  A “Climber” was who I was, with every ounce of my being, and I could never imagine myself living any other way. It completely defined me.

My few friends with kids would just shake their heads: you’ll understand someday, when you have kids, they would say, as they turned down yet another invitation to come climb/camp/hike with me. Surely they were being held back against their will, strapped down, bearing all that baggage. They have NO idea what they are missing, I thought.

Fast forward to October 2005, when I found myself unexpectedly expecting. I was elated. I admired my changing body and marveled at it’s ability to create life without any training or guidance from me. My husband and I talked excitedly about all the camping trips we could take as a family. I stopped climbing during my first trimester, mostly because I was always so exhausted. The rest was welcome after years of training.

On May 9, 2006, my little Utopia disappeared. Forever. Good-bye bohemian climber-girl, hello motherhood! The day my son came screaming into the world was the most important and memorable day of my life, bar none. I didn’t yet miss my old life, because I didn’t realize it was gone. This realization has been a confusing, sometimes depressing, journey that is still unraveling.

My life became whirlwind of activity and anxiety. Nothing, I repeat, nothing, prepares you for bringing home a baby! My son was a tiny preemie, we had to feed him every 3 hours around the clock. He woke up often at night, a habit he didn’t break until he was 2 years old. We never slept. Ever.

No matter, we would say, we’ll just keep our chins up, we’re tough, we can endure. We took the little guy hiking the very first day he came home from the hospital. What a sorry sight! Two sleep-deprived zombies wandering up the side of a hill, fighting over who gets to hold the baby, is he too hot, too cold, hungry, wet?  I lasted about 30 minutes, tops. My body declared mutiny and just quit working altogether.

This mutiny was sustained and stubborn. Trying to train after baby? What a joke.  My barely B-cup chest had suddenly swelled to something unrecognizable, and, frankly, unwelcome.  The first easy run I tried after baby had me clutching my milk-filled melons, crying ow, ow, ow with every step. I lasted about a ¼ mile. Running was out until the nursing was over. I stuck, half heartedly, with weight training, consoling myself with the fact that I could still do a couple sets of pull-ups. I was proud of that too, because I weighed 20 pounds more than I did before baby. Hey, I needed to find some sense of accomplishment somewhere!

Perfect Chaos is how I would describe my life as a new mother. The training I smashed into my day was a meek attempt to add some structure to my life. I used to find solace in discipline: training schedules, drills, sprints, weights, tapers, rest and recovery.  But the training was destined to fail, mainly due to the sleep-deprived stupor I was in constantly. That, plus the hormone-induced mood swings that had me feeling like a superstar one day then feeling like a barnacle the next.  The demands on my body were too much, and my body revolted.

As for climbing? Well, it was the first thing on my mind, but the last thing I could force my beleaguered body and mind to do. Would you want to lead a climb while disoriented and groggy? Knowing your body may crap out just as you reach to clip that bolt?  With a wandering mind rehashing the instructions left with the sitter? Even if I selected climbs well below my level, I couldn’t confidently lead them.  My husband, and climbing partner, couldn’t either.

My climbing and fitness fell by the wayside; so did my confidence and my identity- shredded and discarded, like a worn out pair of Mythos.  And my friends. Yes, my climbing friends were supportive and kind, but suddenly, we really didn’t have much in common. Without climbing adventures to bond over, my friends drifted away, off chasing their own tick list, and I felt more isolated than ever. My new mommy friends weren’t climbers, and thought my obsessions about climbing were odd and eccentric at best, irresponsible and self indulgent, at worst.

I felt like a Rorschach test: you look at it one way and you see a climber, you look at it another way and you see a mother. If you stare at it too long, it just looks like a confusing blob. Somehow, someway, I will make the two elements peacefully co-exist together.

In the end, motherhood is so much bigger than the self, it pulls me entirely OUTSIDE of myself and into another realm. Climbing turns me inward, focuses my energy on something more immediate, methodical, more tangible. Rock, gear, rope, summit. While climbing has its own paradigm of mental and physical gymnastics; stretching, bending and strengthening my body and my willpower; it forces me to focus so intently on my INNER self that I have chosen to leave it behind for the moment, because, really, it leaves no room for anything else in my brain. I cannot yet reconcile the INNER with the OUTER.

The decision to give up climbing (for now) was not easy, was not clear cut. It was like taking the biggest whipper of my life, feeling my stomach jump into my mouth, hoping my gear would hold, grasping at air, dangling, then realizing that nothing, not swinging or aiding up the line would get me back onto the rock. Only now, almost three years after my entry into mommyhood, can I begin to bring it into perspective.  When the time is right, I will lower back down to the deck and begin again, from the ground up. The mountains still beckon, but this is where I am now, and I am content.

 

The author, right, with Merri on Refried Brains, Red Rock, NV

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All mortals must pay homage

Monday, January 19th, 2009

Today is one of those days that reminds me why I choose to live in the desert. And why I choose to endure triple digit temps in the summer. To give you a sense of what I mean by “triple digit”, I mean when you stick your head out the door to call the dogs back inside, your eyebrows go missing. Seared clean off by the heat.

When everyone’s eyebrows grow back, say, by December, that’s when we know it’s safe to go outside again. I am always in awe of the gorgeous winter days we have here in Vegas, and today did not disappoint. 

I felt it was my obligation to pay homage to the Goddess of Sunshine and Fair Weather today since she can be a real fickle bitch.  Know the penalty if you don’t pay homage?  The Goddess of Sunshine and Fair Weather will run away to somewhere she likes to frequent, like Hawaii, and leave behind her evil stepbrother, The God of the Freezing Whipping Wind, who likes to flatten expensive landscaping the way my toddler likes to step on bugs. Before she leaves, and she tends to leave rather suddenly, she’ll board up all your windows and doors so that next time she comes to town, you can’t pay homage even if you want to. Yes, she is vindictive, and has a sick, sick mind.

I packed up the toddler and headed out to Calico Basin, a nice little spot just outside Red Rock Canyon. If you have never been to RR, I encourage you to put it on your list of Places To Visit Before You Die. It’s that spectacular.

Today, the massive expanse of blue sky made the orange and red sandstone look brilliant, it was glowing, I tell you. From freaking within. The Goddess was NOT messing around.

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Red Spring is ideal for today’s outing because it offers quick access-you don’t have to drive on the 13-mile, one way loop as in Red Rock proper- and it has plenty of picnic tables and easy trails for unreliable, pint sized hiking partners.

It also has a cool boardwalk that is really fun to run up and down at breakneck speed. I mean, um, if you’re a kid. Ahem. Two minutes after we got on the boardwalk, my son found the highest point and dropped his Matchbox truck down into the grass below. Then proceeded to have an epic tantrum until I retrieved it. Sigh. Check out his sneaky technique.

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Here he imitates his momma’s technique of treading on our precious desert vegetation.

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Back down to the picnic tables for some lunch.

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The kid will climb on ANYTHING!

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Up the trail to the slabby rocks…He kept yelling “climb this mountain mommy!” as he charged up every vertical object. He’s a freaking natural. I had to hold him back, for fear he would fly into orbit.

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My favorite part was here, at this crag. After he carefully studied this hangdoggin’  climber for a few minutes, he started yelling every time the guy moved. Heh. FYI, that’s really bad etiquette, like sneezing in someone’s backswing, but hey, he’s two, and his timing was impeccable.

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Ahh, the ultimate goal of every outing in a mother’s life…a napping baby.

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Amen, and thank you for keeping us in your good graces, Goddess of Sunshine and Fair Weather.

Birthday Camping in Zion

Friday, October 24th, 2008

Last weekend I packed up the family and headed to Zion National Park, about 3 hours from Vegas. My DH and I don’t get to enjoy many of the climbing trips and campfire shenanigans we used to indulge in before Nick came along, so we take what we can get. The weather was gorgeous, high 80’s during the day and maybe about 50 at night.  Good, snuggly, tent weather, not too cold, not too hot.

Nick is always up at the crack of dawn, ready to explore.

p1010028We had a great little hike along the Virgin River just as the sun was coming up.

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Then Nick proceeded to make mama some coffee. He’s a good boy!

p1010056Off to the Zion Visitor Center to catch a shuttle into the park.

p1010062Nick loves riding the shuttle, he gets to sit in his own seat like a big boy. I can’t tell you how psyched he gets about it!

p1010064We start up the Emerald Pools trail, a really short, pretty hike.  We make it about 1/4 mile.  That’s pretty damn good for us!  Nick is at that age where he won’t ride in the kid carrier, but he can’t really hike any distance.

p1010083We end up with the “Campground Curse”-no naptime due to over-excitement. So we just make the best of it and let him run around with the other campground urchins. He’ll collapse in the tent later.

My boy is lovin’ life!

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